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Thursday, February 9, 2012

Big and small 'five' on a Botswana safari

Totaltravel: I am in Botswana, home to the largest remaining elephant population in the world.

That is one of the joys of Botswana.

Unlike some of the other African safari destinations, Botswana has been careful to keep its national parks open only to low impact tourism, so you don't see mass convoys of cars. This makes the whole experience feel more authentic.

At the heat of the day - the point at which the sun is hottest, as morning gives way to afternoon - there's a three-hour siesta-type period.

The animals head for water and rest. We do the same and stop for lunch.

Later, we head east towards the Savuti region. On the way, we spot a pack of lions hiding beneath a bush.

A cuddly-looking cub nestles into its mum's neck, and they gleefully play, while I look on in disbelief that we're so close.

However, it soon became clear that this safari holiday wasn't all about the big predators. Our guide shows as much enthusiasm for insects as he does for big cats, and Botswana is also famed for its vast birdlife - showcased beautifully near our camp on the Savuti marsh.

We witness a feeding frenzy of thousands, made up of 150 different species of birds, all feeding from one pool.

Our guide points out eagles, lilac-breasted rollers, red-billed hornbills, and black egrets, to name just a few.

Later, we stumble across a huge flock of pelicans, all wobbling their beaks simultaneously, to cool themselves down. I can't help but chuckle; it's such an amusing sight.

A little later, I have to pinch myself as we stop for a cup of tea and biscuit, and as I sip from my mug, an Ostrich grazes on the marsh ahead, while two elephants chomp away behind.

Then we watch a male leopard leap elegantly out of a tree and prowl straight past us. It's completely surreal.

This region is a lot busier than Moremi. The Savuti attracts more tourists as the landscape is prettier and the wildlife more concentrated.

Driving across the centre of the marsh, herds of wildebeest, elephant, buffalo, impala and zebra can be seen in one sweep of the binoculars.

After a lucky sighting of rare wild dogs and giraffes, we hop on a boat to neighbouring Namibia.

The Savanna Lodge on the Chobe River, consisting of twelve thatched chalets, is our final stop. After camping, this is pure luxury.

My room is large and comfortable with a balcony overlooking the river.

There's a small restaurant, lounge area and bar, with incredible panoramic views of the vast floodplains of Chobe National Park.

We explore Chobe by boat. A family of elephants swims by as the sun sets in the background.

It's the perfect end to an incredible holiday. It may have been an adventurous trip, but it wasn't particularly active. We only left the car once for a short walk up a rock face to see some ancient drawings, and the drives between camps were long.

But, they were well worth it. And as I sip my gin and tonic watching the sunset, I can't think of anywhere in the world I'd rather be.

KEY FACTS - BOTSWANA SAFARI

BEST FOR: Couples or friends who have been on safari before.

TIME TO GO: May-October.

DON'T MISS: The "small five" insect species as well as the big five.

NEED TO KNOW: Not all guides are experts, so find a highly qualified one.

DON'T FORGET: Neutral-coloured long sleeves and trousers for early morning drives.

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